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Table of Contents
00:00 Intro
01:15 Blocks & Reservoir
02:39 Radiators
04:00 Fans
04:26 Tubing
04:44 Coolant
05:15 Fittings
06:43 Bending Tools
07:08 Installing GPU Block
10:28 Installing CPU Block
11:50 Setting Up Radiators
14:14 Radiator Placement
16:23 Installing Pump
19:04 Using Fittings In Place Of Bends
20:29 Flow Order
22:17 Tube Bending
30:23 Filling & Leak Testing
37:05 Final Thoughts
Top personal goal when i can afford is water cool my rig. Just absorbing everything Jay has to offer on the subject and from others too so i can feel some semblance of confidence to take on this most righteous quest.😂 Great build love this stuff
Starting my first watercooled build in late 2026! (RIP my wallet…) A couple things I found when doing research that wasn’t mentioned here that may help some is to fill the radiators with hot water (before attaching to the loop) and give them a good shake while covering the ports/openings. This will rinse the insides which may have some oils or debris that came from the manufacturing process. Some recommend doing the hot water flush a couple times for each rad. Also, I read recommendations of using distilled water the first time filling to test the loop for leaks and then draining/flushing the system. This doubles as a way to potentially remove any small, loose debris that could be floating in the loop initially, and also flushing distilled water is cheaper than flushing actual coolant. Once everything looks good (no leaks and after the first distilled flush), fill the loop with coolant and proceed to bleed air.
Why hard line vs flexible 🤔
I would love to see a video on the actual parts like all the fittings! Hear allot about using an air pump and pressure testing the system! and about the tubing sizes and difference between acrylic tubing !!
A few important comments:
1. Right off the bat: More often than not you want to rather liquid cool your GPU than your CPU as your CPU can handle higher temps (e.g. only starts throttling around upper 85-90C) over your GPU (throttles at already 78C)
2. As a beginner you shouldn’t be doing hard tubing but be using soft tubing. More flexible and makes your live much easier initially, still with good performance
3. A 120mm radiator-min rule is nonsense because you might aswell just do air cooling. No, minimum is 240mm, not 120mm radiator.
4. Also recall, this is sponsored by corsair. Yeah, corsair is a reliable and reputable brand when it comes to PSUs, RAM or Radiators. But for Fans you have a much better Price/Performance ratio with Arctic. or wtih GPU Block and Alphacool. or with the fittings from alphacool. You’re typically better off individually researching the parts since they’re mostly compatible anyways.
5. More important than “filling out your whole case amap” is actually checking clearance. Nothing is more frustrating than having a plan and wanting to liquid cool with a 360mm radiator, only to see with your mATX case or an ATX mobo the radiator is to thick/long, and having to research a new fitting case, ordering it, and manually disassembling it all and reassambling…
6. absolutely DONT pay 5x more (~100USD) for the XL5/8 coolant, if you can get the same quality BUT WITH BIOCIDE from the EK Clear coolant for just 20USD… You don’t want dyed coolant for your first loop, since clear one with transparent tubing will make it better to spot and check in if potential cloggadges / sedimens forming, etc.
7. you dont want to pull hot air through the radiaotr into your case! YOU want all radiator fans to be on push to push caseair throguh radiator outside, preferrably with adjacent case fans to be intake and close by s.t. all case fans intake fresh air. Else you have your case heating up!
8. His yapping on ring color of fans is unnecessary; visualize before how you want it and order them in reverse with ARGB – thats it.
9. All of this expensive extra around hard tubing is absolutely unnecessary! i.e.: the cutter, the headgun, the table holder, the bend-shape-holder etc. Just use soft tubing!